Retinol Update

Look at that smooth skin!

And notice the headband!

Hey guys. So if you’ve seen one of my more recent YouTube videos, you know that I use retinol, and I gave a pretty exhaustive explanation there about what I use, how I started, and how I gradually worked my way up. So I’m not going to rehash all of that here. I just wanted to give you an update on how things are going now. When I originally started retinol, I started with a 0.08% formulation. And one of the things I talked about in the video was that, whenever I increase strength, I basically start the acclimation process over again. I go back to using it once a week and see how my skin responds before I increase the frequency.

A few weeks ago, I moved from 0.1% retinol to 0.2%. This time, I’m using SKIN1004.

And let me tell you: read the bottle.

Actually, if everything is not clearly spelled out on the box, go online and find a photograph of the bottle before you buy it. Because, as I mentioned in the video, there is a difference between retinol—with an O—and retinal—with an A. Retinal is the stronger retinoid, and I had deliberately been avoiding it because I wanted to progress slowly through retinol first. So when I went into my local K-beauty store and saw a 0.2% retinol product, I thought, Perfect. I bought it, took it home, put it on my skincare shelf, and didn’t really examine the bottle until the night I was actually going to use it.

And that is when I discovered that it contains both retinol and retinal.

I was like:

Excuse me?

I honestly do not remember seeing that clearly stated on the box, because if I had seen the word retinal, I probably would not have bought it. I tried to look up exactly how much retinal is in the formulation, and I could not find a clear answer. It appears to be a relatively small amount, but still—it is there. And, because apparently that was not enough excitement, the formula also contains spicules. If you’ve heard of products like VT Reedle Shot, you’ve probably heard that term before. Spicules are tiny needle-like structures used in skincare to create a micro-stimulation effect and help increase delivery of the product.

So now I had gone from 0.1% retinol to 0.2%, added retinal into the mix, and added spicules.

I thought:

Well. This could be interesting.

Which is exactly why, this time around, I have been much more serious about barrier support. When I first started retinol, I dealt with dryness, peeling, and irritation while my skin was acclimating. And one of the biggest things I learned from that experience was that the products surrounding the retinol matter. So before I increased the strength this time, I concentrated heavily on hydration. I started doing more sheet masks again. During the colder months, I naturally use more masks anyway. In the summer, I tend to scale back because some of them can feel heavy, and quite frankly, sometimes I just don’t have the time. Before all of this, my two favorite masks were the JAYJUN Rose Blossom Mask and SKINFOOD’s Rice Brightening Mask.

Then, a few weeks ago, I went to my local K-beauty store and saw JMsolution. JMsolution’s packaging is ridiculously dramatic. Most of the boxes are black with metallic details, and then they put some glamorous image of whatever ingredient is getting top billing on the front. The Active Jellyfish mask, for example, has this gorgeous glowing jellyfish on the package.

I love it.

The store had two JMsolution masks when I first bought them: Bird’s Nest and Golden Cocoon. They were about $12 for a box of ten, which works out to roughly $1.20 per mask—pretty normal pricing for a sheet mask. So I bought both. And then I tried them. Oh. My. Goodness. I still love the SKINFOOD Rice mask. I still love the JAYJUN Rose Blossom mask. They are absolutely staying in my rotation.

But the JMsolution masks are different. They are heavy-duty hydration, particularly the Golden Cocoon. In fact, some of them are probably better suited for cooler weather because, in the middle of summer, they can be a lot. I actually started taking photographs of my skin after using different masks and comparing them in ChatGPT because my skin looked and felt different, and I wanted to know whether I was imagining it.

I wasn’t.

I’ll save the full sheet-mask discussion for another post because my mask collection has gotten completely out of control. But the important thing here is that, before moving up to 0.2% retinol, I started using masks much more frequently and made a point of getting my skin as hydrated as possible. I knew I was essentially doubling the labeled retinol concentration from 0.1% to 0.2%. And with this particular formula also containing retinal and spicules, I wanted my skin barrier in the best condition I could manage before I started. I also added a second barrier cream to my rotation: Purito Mighty Bamboo Panthenol Cream. I started using it as the first part of the “sandwich.” And I’ve also been using Arencia’s newer booster products—either the Rosy PDRN Booster Shot or the NAD+ Booster Shot. I’m going to save the full serum discussion for another post, because I think I want to start doing regular “What I’m Using Now” posts.

But the short version is this:

This time, I built the routine around the retinol instead of expecting my old routine to simply tolerate a stronger retinol.

Disclaimer, because you know I’m a lawyer: Everything in this post is based on my own research and my own experience with my skin. Your skin may behave completely differently. Do your own research, patch test if you’re prone to reactions, and don’t assume that because something worked for me it will work for you. Proceed accordingly.

So here is what my current evening retinol routine looks like.

I start with an oil cleanser. I’m almost finished with my SKIN1004 cleansing oil, and I already have a backup waiting: Beauty of Joseon’s Ginseng Cleansing Oil. It is a little heavier, which I actually think is going to be perfect going into cooler weather.

After that, I follow with my Arencia mochi cleanser. Right now I’m using the Rice Mucin cleanser.

Then I use toner. I’m still working through my Celimax creamy toner, and if I feel like my skin needs a little extra something, I’ll also use Beauty of Joseon’s Ginseng Essence Water.

After that comes a sheet mask.

I have so many at this point that I basically pick whatever I feel like using that night.

I usually reach for something hydrating or calming: JMsolution Honey Propolis, Active Jellyfish, or JayJun’s Rose Blossom, or something like the SKINFOOD Carrot Carotene products on days when I want more soothing.

Once I take the mask off, I let the essence dry down a little with my fan.

Then I start layering my serums.

I’ll use a little Arencia Deep Water Surge Serum, followed by either the NAD+ Booster Shot or the Rosy PDRN Booster Shot.

Then comes the first moisturizer layer for my sandwich method.

I use a small amount—probably about a pea-sized amount—of Purito Mighty Bamboo Panthenol Cream across my face.

I apply my eye retinol, then the SKIN1004 0.2% retinol product, and finally I seal everything in with COSRX’s skin barrier moisturizing cream.

And that is basically how I finish the night.

The difference this time has been pretty remarkable. I have not had any flaking. I have not had the irritation I was expecting.

When I first started at 0.08%, I had some pretty significant peeling around my mouth and chin. When I moved to 0.1%, I still had a little flaking, although that was a much smaller increase. Going from 0.1% to 0.2%, I was honestly bracing myself for the worst. Instead, everything I have been doing around the retinol seems to be working. My skin is tolerating it much better. Even the next morning, I can go back into my usual routine without my face feeling raw or angry. I can use my gentler vitamin C products without a problem. Granted, I did intentionally step down from a very strong 23% vitamin C serum to gentler vitamin C derivatives because I realized the stronger formula was simply too irritating alongside retinol. But even with that adjustment, the difference is huge. I have not had to break out the aloe vera gel to cool my face down. I have not felt like I absolutely had to use calming pads just to get through the next day. Even sunscreen is no longer stinging the way it sometimes did when my barrier was compromised. So for me, all of that is a sign that my skin is handling this increase much better.

At this point, I have done the .1% retinol at a frequency of once a week for the past three weeks. My next step is twice a week. I’m planning to try Tuesday and Saturday and see how my skin responds. I usually stay at twice a week for at least a couple of weeks, but I am not in a rush. If my skin tells me I need longer, then I will stay there longer.

The one thing I have noticed this time is more purging. That does not really surprise me because this was a much bigger jump in strength. For me, the breakouts are showing up in the areas where I normally tend to break out, and I am not getting the things I would associate more with general irritation—no widespread rash, no itching, no burning. I pulled out my trusty Medicube Mini Booster Pro and have been using the blue-light function on the breakouts, which has been helping me manage them while my skin adjusts. I fully expect that increasing from once a week to twice a week may stir things up again. But overall, I am not particularly worried about it because even when I do get a breakout now, I am not seeing the same kind of lingering dark mark afterward that I used to get. Between the retinoid and the pigment-support products I use in the morning, the aftermath of a breakout is completely different for me now.

One other thing I figured out along the way was that some of the dryness around my mouth may not have been entirely the retinol’s fault. I realized that I was sometimes doing my entire skincare routine and then brushing my teeth. Which meant I was basically wiping away all the carefully applied moisturizer and barrier-support products around my mouth. So now I brush my teeth before I start my nighttime skincare.

I am also much more careful about protecting my lips because I have accidentally gotten retinol too close to the edges before, and that can leave my lips peeling. I use a Laneige sleeping lip mask and put on a generous layer before I start the rest of my retinol routine.Then, if I get up later for water or anything else, I try to be careful not to wipe everything away from the mouth area. It is such a small change, but I think it has made a real difference. So far, so good.

Once a week has gone extremely well. So now we are moving on up. .

I’ll give you guys another update in a couple of weeks and let you know the verdict.